If you want to learn more about good old outboards, what to look for, and how to keep them running, the VERY BEST book to buy is “Cheap Outboards” by Max Wazrzyniak. You can purchase it from Duckworks Boat Builders Supply at www.duckworksbbs.com/media/books.htm. His chapters describing servicing for the OMC ignition and gearbox are classics. And he gives excellent guidance on what motors to look for and how to evaluate them before you buy them. My only criticism of this book, which was published in 2006, is that it is getting a bit dated and does not address any of the “modern” models that were manufactured after 1980 (they appeared to be contrary to Wazrzyniak’s definition of “cheap” back then, due mainly to their electronic ignitions). If you don’t want to buy the book, you can still read his articles on good old outboards at http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/06/columns/max/articles.htm
One of the best online sources of information for good old outboards is Leeroy Wisner’s website “Leeroy’s Ramblings,” www.leeroysramblings.com. As the title suggests, some of his articles are lengthy, but in return he provides plenty of details and photos for maintaining and repairing several of the smaller OMC outboards. He has written lots of stories of his old outboard adventures. And he has useful information on buying, repairing, and caring for good old outboards that span the “modernized” Johnson/Evinrudes as well as other brands -- Mercury; Force; and Yamaha.
A excellent source of information on vintage (1970 and older) outboards is Peter Hunn’s “The Old Outboard Book.” This is considered the bible for the antique outboard collector and for anyone interested in the history of the motors that our parents and grandparents bought and used. He has provided a wealth of history for Evinudes, Johnsons, Kiekhaefer and Mercurys, and all the lesser-known pre- and post-war brands.
If you have a good old motor, or have decided to go find (and use) a good old motor, you will need a few sources of parts to help keep it running. Here are some of the best and most useful to me: first, search the internet and YouTube with your specific motor and horsepower and you will find many more sources of information and know-how. How to change the water impeller, or the points? Look on YouTube for the make and model. Many outboards use the same parts and design for different models, so often just finding something close to the vintage and horsepower is good enough. For on-line parts drawings of post-war OMC motors, hard-copy OEM service manuals, and discounted OEM and aftermarket parts go to Marine Engine (www.marineengine.com). And for on-line parts drawings of Nissan/Tohatsu motors and parts you can check out Mastertech Marine, http://www.maxrules.com/index.php
If you want a service manual, check your library, used book stores, or Amazon for the Clymer books. If you have an OMC motor, look for “Evinrude/Johnson Outboard Shop Manual, 1.5-125 HP, 1956-1972” (B734); “Evinrude/Johnson Outboard Shop Manual, 2-40 HP, 1973-1990” (B732); and “Evinrude/Johnson Outboard Shop Manual, 2-70 HP, 1995-2007” (B735-2). The second of these manuals (B732) spans OMC’s transition to the “modern” engines with their electronic ignitions, and it might be the most useful of the three. Like the Clymer manuals that cover multiple years and models, SELOC also publishes a series of manuals that cover the various makes. If you need it, you can get copies of shop manuals for specific engines from www.marineengine.com.
For almost real-time commentary and online Q&A on old motors, check out the Antique Outboard Motor Club’s (www.aomci.org) “Ask a Member” forum at
www.aomci.org/resources/ask-a-member/. You have to join the AOMC or register as a guest to post questions or comments, but searching the forum for information is free and fun. There is an incredible amount of information on the less common -- and really old -- motors, and there seems to be experts on every motor, and opinions on just about any motor problem. As always, the advice can sometimes be worth what you pay for it (nothing), so be prepared for contradictory suggestions and solutions.
The Antique Outboard Motor Club also holds local meets, which always include a motor and part flea market, and probably has a good lunch, too. Their website lists the event schedule and even directions to a meet near you, www.aomci.org/events/. You don’t need to be a member of the club to participate in the meet although they usually ask for a few bucks to help pay for the lunch and space. Ask questions -- advice is free, and you’ll probably find someone who can help you figure out your problem. AOMC meets are a great place to find good old outboards -- motors that are too new or too common to collect, but too good to throw out and need to find a new home. Kicking tires and dickering are accepted practices at the flea markets. And they will most likely be very happy to help you keep your good old outboard motor running like new.
Finally, here are some basic outboard rules to keep in mind, especially if you are shopping for your first good old outboard (or if you need some reminders):
- Never turn an engine backwards. Only turn the engine flywheel clockwise.
- Never shift an engine without turning the flywheel or the prop. Never force the shift lever.
- Never shift a running engine unless it’s operating at idle speed, or at least running very slowly.
- Don’t “baby” the shifter. Bring the motor speed down, and then shift, positively. This helps the shifter “clutch dog” on propeller drive shaft live a much longer life.
- Never shift from forward to reverse (or the opposite) without pausing in neutral.
- Never, ever run an outboard without cooling water. And never run an engine if you can’t be sure is cooling (carefully feel the area around the crankcase near the spark plug -- if it’s hot to touch, shut the motor down and figure out what’s clogged or broken).
- Never, ever operate a 2-cycle engine without oil in the gas. Even if you have to use the wrong oil (in an emergency), or the wrong proportion (more, within reason, is always OK) make sure there’s some kind of oil in the gas to lubricate the moving parts.
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