Shade Tree Mechanic's Outboard Hoist

Problem: Pick up and move an outboard motor

My limit for lifting outboards seems to have stopped at about the weight of an Evinrude Fisherman outboard. If I push it, a long-shaft 6-hp Yachtwin. That turns out to be about 50-60 pounds. Having followed the many recycling and re-use exploits of Dan Rogers, of "Almost Canada" fame in "Messing About in Boats," I felt challenged during our Covid summer to assemble a hoist for the bigger motors from stuff that was sitting around my shop: one used Potter (aka "yard") trailer; one steel tube "V" from an unnamed trailer that was cut up long ago; one tow cable; some chain and a couple of big bolts; and my come-along hoist. And some cinder blocks and scrap steel for counterweights.

Here's the first test -- 20 pounds, no problem. I can change the angle of the crane by clipping the tow cable to a different link in the chain. Eventually I added an old trailer winch to replace the tow cable so I could adjust the angle while there was a load on the hoist.

Next problem: Connect a lifting ring to the motor

My first thought was to truss the motor up with some double braid. Then on the internet I spotted a special (that is, expensive) outboard tool that was designed to attach a temporary lifting eye to the outboard's flywheel. I duplicated it using my Harbor Freight flywheel puller and some stainless steel bolts. And, of course, an eyebolt. This test shown here is with a spare 6-hp block. On some of my outboards I might need to remove the recoil starter to get to the flywheel, but the Evinrudes only have a spring cover over the holes that are used to pull the flywheel to service the ignition. Just needed to remove the flywheel nut to remove the cover, and it's good to go. Remember to put the nut back on before you lift -- just in case.

Here's a pic of the Harbor Freight flywheel puller kit...

If I didn't have the puller kit I would use a piece of 1/4-inch thick aluminum plate with four strategically-located holes.

KISS